Petec

Total Posts 95

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Viewing 41 to 60 (95 Total)
Re: Main Beam Warning Light Hi Mike Isn't the warning light in a removable bulb holder in the back of the Speedo? You can replace the bulb so I would have thought that you can detach the bulb holder, normally held in with spring loaded fingers or slide fit into a tube on the back of the speedo? If it's a metal type bulb holder it should earth via the speedo body, although you may have to provide an earth wire from the clamp that holds the speedo to the dashboard to a suitable earth point on the body behind the dash somewhere.. Let us know how you get on Regards PeteC Posted on October 17, 2016 at 3:40 PM
Re: Timing marks Hi Mike It sounds like the timing pointers may have been flattened over when the Engine was out or something! I would think if you can get under the car, or better still get it on a ramp you should be able to straighten them up again. Some owners have painted a timing mark on the topside of the Crank Pulley and timing cover to make it easier to set the timing from above! I have to say it's a daft place to put the timing marker on a Midget but then this engine went into a lot of other applications that weren't so low to the ground and restricted to view! Regards PeteC Attachments: Midget_timing_marks.jpg Posted on August 19, 2016 at 11:44 AM
Re: B Post trim Hi Mike From what I can discover it looks like this strip of metalwork is simply covered by a piece of vinyl glued directly over it. I don't have the same thing on my '61 Midget but looking at other later cars it seems that's all that is required! PeteC Posted on August 10, 2016 at 2:26 PM
Re: B Post trim Hi Mike There is no trim on the B Post outboard of the Door Seal. The Door Striker is fitted to the painted body in the door apreture. The trim panel inboard of the Door Seal is a plywood panel, covered with the vinyl trim material, shaped to fit between the rear wheel arch and the Door. The forward edge, by the Door, can have an extra bit of the vinyl which is glued to the Door seal flange and then covered by the Door seal itself, although I think if you buy a trim kit it stops short of the door seal. Cheers PeteC Attachments: Midget_Trim.png Posted on July 29, 2016 at 12:54 PM
Re: Carb Trumpets Hi Richie I understand that even short carb trumpets can improve torque in the mid ranges, 1/2 inch ones fitted inside the Filter housing. There are various styles available from Moss. You should double check that you have the gaskets between the carbs and Air Filter the right way round too as if fitted upside down, and they will fit, the two breather holes above the mounting holes get closed off and this will cause the problem you describe. Hope this helps.. PeteC Posted on July 13, 2016 at 3:38 PM
Re: Engine and Rocker Cover Colour Hi Michael All the 1500 (Triumph) Engines had Silver painted Rocker Covers in both MG and Triumph applications. You're right about the Block being Black too. Be great to see a picture of the finished job! Cheers Pete Posted on July 13, 2016 at 3:32 PM
Re: Coolant in the carbs Hi Simon The 1500 Engine has a coolant pipe running through the Inlet Manifold. Unfortunately they can corrode over time and start leaking. The pipe was designed to help prevent icing on cold winter days and help fuel atomisation. You have a couple of options. You can get another Inlet Manifold or you can by-pass the pipe by fitting an external pipe and joining the hoses at either end. This is unlikely to cause water in the Carb Float chambers though and I would suggest that if water is present in the Float Chambers that is more likely just being drawn out of the Fuel Tank from a build up over time. The only answer there would be to remove and clean the Tank or replace it! Hope this helps and you're back up and running again soon. Regards Pete Posted on June 28, 2016 at 11:22 AM
Re: NMF 700L & CDF 826K Unfortunately neither car is on our Register so we can't help you with more info. As Steve has already said you'll have to see if you can speak with previous Owner(s) to gain more details. Sorry we can't help more this time PeteC Posted on May 09, 2016 at 3:46 PM
Re: Last 500 verification Hi Ronnie The last batch of Black Midgets produced were between Chassis Number GAN6 229001G & GAN6 229500G and all would have a commemorative Plaque on the Dashboard. So if your car is between these numbers it has obviously lost it's Plaque over time unfortunately! If you let us have your Chassis Number we'll see if it's on our Register already. PeteC Posted on May 05, 2016 at 2:30 PM
Re: Puzzled no vin number Hi Cherle Result! Well done. Once you have the Heritage Certificate you should be able to get the V5 amended. I guess you can leave the MOT Certificate as is until it's due another test then get the proper VIN put on the new Certificate? Glad it's sorted though.. PeteC Posted on April 29, 2016 at 9:48 AM
Re: Puzzled no vin number Hi Cherle If the correct VIN was HAN9 59153 it would have to be an HAN8 prefix as the last HAN8 car built had a Serial No of 64734. This is why I thought it could be HAN9 69153G (all Abingdon produced cars have a suffix G). Does the car still have its body Number Plate attached to the 'A' post between the Door Hinges, beginning GBE***** as this might help BMHT get your details too? PeteC Posted on April 27, 2016 at 4:39 PM
Re: Puzzled no vin number Hi Cher The Chassis Number on these cars should be on a Plate secured to the nearside Chassis Rail under the Carbs and the Engine Number should be on a plate just under the front Spark Plug area on the Engine. I can see that DVLA shows the Chassis No (VIN) as MAN959153 and the Engine No as12CCDRH9678. Looking at our Register of Cars I would guess that the Chassis No should be HAN9 69153G and Engine No 12CCDAH9678 but that's only a guess based on the date of registration and where it fits amongst other similar age cars we have on the Register. Unfortunately it's not uncommon for these cars to have wrongly entered characters and numbers on their Registration Documents (V5) as when they were first registered the log book details were entered by hand and then subsequently when transferred to the computerised system we now have, some details were entered wrongly! If there is no Chassis Plate on your car you may be able to get more details from British Motor Heritage Trust who keep all the Factory records? Hope this helps PeteC Posted on April 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM
Re: Midget SU carbs Hi Paul I'm guessing that somehow one or both the throttle flap(s) are stuck open? Have a good look at the linkage between the throttles on the carbs and see if it's jamming somewhere. Otherwise you may have a problem with the throttle cam on the choke linkage. Probably best to start from scratch with the throttle linkage settings making sure both throttles open at the same time and to the same degree when the accelerator pedal is depressed. You'll need to balance the carbs and set the mixtures at idle once you've resolved the problem and then set up the fast idle speed when the choke is used. I think the Haynes manual gives a pretty good description of the set up procedure if you have one, or these days there's probably a you tube video! Hope this helps PeteC Posted on March 14, 2016 at 2:16 PM
Re: 1966 midget rebuild Hi Keith Wow looks great too! Please submit the details for our Car of the Month feature. I'm sure we'd all like to hear more about you project! Regards PeteC Posted on February 23, 2016 at 1:27 PM
Re: 1966 midget rebuild Hi Keith Great news! I look forward to seeing you out and about in it. How about some Pic's so we can see the result of your hard work! Well done. PeteC Posted on February 12, 2016 at 3:05 PM
Re: Cam belt conversion Hi I've not had any experience of these Cam Belt Kits unfortunately, however someone else might come up with more info. I found this info from Mini Spares http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/BELTBELT.aspx... You may be able to match up what you have with their offerings? You will need to raise the Engine off its mountings to get the Crank Pulley off and maybe a lot easier with the Rad out too! Not sure how much clearance you'll have compared to the standard set up (Timing Chain) but hopefully enough to get it off! We'd be interested to here how you get on and maybe some pictures if you get chance to take some. Regards PeteC Posted on January 12, 2016 at 4:19 PM
Re: 1966 midget rebuild Hi Keith That's great news, well done. Looks like you can buy the moulded Plug that fits into the two speed motor which would make the connection easier, see link below http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-517621PLUG... The Wipers aren't the best thing on these cars but I'm sure the two speeds will help! Cheers PeteC Posted on January 11, 2016 at 9:07 AM
Re: 1966 midget rebuild Hi Keith Happy New Year! Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Have a look at these two articles http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2252269... http://vitessesteve.co.uk/LucasStuff/Triumph-2-speed-wiper-wiring... They appear to have all that you might need to fit a two speed Motor to your Midget. Do let us know if you go ahead and convert your Wipers and how you got on... Cheers PeteC Posted on January 06, 2016 at 4:05 PM
Re: Refurbished Rostyles They do look great and sets the car off a treat too! Petec Posted on December 11, 2015 at 8:51 AM
Re: Replacement front wing fit Hi Glyn Doesn't look good in several areas! There will be an element of 'fitting' to be done, especially with such a large complex shaped panel. As Steve said I think the Bodyshop should ask the Supplier to look at it. It appears to me that the curved area where the wing meets the sill is the wrong shape with the gap opening up as it goes towards the front wheel. If this cannot be corrected by simple adjustment then the wing is the wrong shape. It may be possible that the front panel was moved as a result of the impact, as it is a bolt on panel too, and some adjustment could be made to that but that would affect the opposite wing and Bonnet fitting too! It looks to me like the wing is misshaped and the Supplier should be involved to remedy matters for you. Petec Posted on October 19, 2015 at 10:27 AM

Viewing 41 to 60 (95 Total)

Re: Main Beam Warning Light

Hi Mike
Isn't the warning light in a removable bulb holder in the back of the Speedo? You can replace the bulb so I would have thought that you can detach the bulb holder, normally held in with spring loaded fingers or slide fit into a tube on the back of the speedo? If it's a metal type bulb holder it should earth via the speedo body, although you may have to provide an earth wire from the clamp that holds the speedo to the dashboard to a suitable earth point on the body behind the dash somewhere..
Let us know how you get on
Regards
PeteC

Posted on October 17, 2016 at 3:40 PM

Re: Timing marks

Hi Mike
It sounds like the timing pointers may have been flattened over when the Engine was out or something! I would think if you can get under the car, or better still get it on a ramp you should be able to straighten them up again. Some owners have painted a timing mark on the topside of the Crank Pulley and timing cover to make it easier to set the timing from above! I have to say it's a daft place to put the timing marker on a Midget but then this engine went into a lot of other applications that weren't so low to the ground and restricted to view!
Regards
PeteC

Posted on August 19, 2016 at 11:44 AM

Re: B Post trim

Hi Mike
From what I can discover it looks like this strip of metalwork is simply covered by a piece of vinyl glued directly over it. I don't have the same thing on my '61 Midget but looking at other later cars it seems that's all that is required!
PeteC

Posted on August 10, 2016 at 2:26 PM

Re: B Post trim

Hi Mike
There is no trim on the B Post outboard of the Door Seal. The Door Striker is fitted to the painted body in the door apreture. The trim panel inboard of the Door Seal is a plywood panel, covered with the vinyl trim material, shaped to fit between the rear wheel arch and the Door. The forward edge, by the Door, can have an extra bit of the vinyl which is glued to the Door seal flange and then covered by the Door seal itself, although I think if you buy a trim kit it stops short of the door seal.
Cheers
PeteC

Posted on July 29, 2016 at 12:54 PM

Re: Carb Trumpets

Hi Richie
I understand that even short carb trumpets can improve torque in the mid ranges, 1/2 inch ones fitted inside the Filter housing. There are various styles available from Moss.
You should double check that you have the gaskets between the carbs and Air Filter the right way round too as if fitted upside down, and they will fit, the two breather holes above the mounting holes get closed off and this will cause the problem you describe. Hope this helps..
PeteC

Posted on July 13, 2016 at 3:38 PM

Re: Engine and Rocker Cover Colour

Hi Michael
All the 1500 (Triumph) Engines had Silver painted Rocker Covers in both MG and Triumph applications. You're right about the Block being Black too. Be great to see a picture of the finished job!
Cheers
Pete

Posted on July 13, 2016 at 3:32 PM

Re: Coolant in the carbs

Hi Simon
The 1500 Engine has a coolant pipe running through the Inlet Manifold. Unfortunately they can corrode over time and start leaking. The pipe was designed to help prevent icing on cold winter days and help fuel atomisation. You have a couple of options. You can get another Inlet Manifold or you can by-pass the pipe by fitting an external pipe and joining the hoses at either end.
This is unlikely to cause water in the Carb Float chambers though and I would suggest that if water is present in the Float Chambers that is more likely just being drawn out of the Fuel Tank from a build up over time. The only answer there would be to remove and clean the Tank or replace it!
Hope this helps and you're back up and running again soon.
Regards
Pete

Posted on June 28, 2016 at 11:22 AM

Re: NMF 700L & CDF 826K

Unfortunately neither car is on our Register so we can't help you with more info. As Steve has already said you'll have to see if you can speak with previous Owner(s) to gain more details.
Sorry we can't help more this time
PeteC

Posted on May 09, 2016 at 3:46 PM

Re: Last 500 verification

Hi Ronnie
The last batch of Black Midgets produced were between Chassis Number GAN6 229001G & GAN6 229500G and all would have a commemorative Plaque on the Dashboard. So if your car is between these numbers it has obviously lost it's Plaque over time unfortunately!
If you let us have your Chassis Number we'll see if it's on our Register already.
PeteC

Posted on May 05, 2016 at 2:30 PM

Re: Puzzled no vin number

Hi Cherle
Result! Well done. Once you have the Heritage Certificate you should be able to get the V5 amended. I guess you can leave the MOT Certificate as is until it's due another test then get the proper VIN put on the new Certificate? Glad it's sorted though..
PeteC

Posted on April 29, 2016 at 9:48 AM

Re: Puzzled no vin number

Hi Cherle
If the correct VIN was HAN9 59153 it would have to be an HAN8 prefix as the last HAN8 car built had a Serial No of 64734. This is why I thought it could be HAN9 69153G (all Abingdon produced cars have a suffix G). Does the car still have its body Number Plate attached to the 'A' post between the Door Hinges, beginning GBE***** as this might help BMHT get your details too?
PeteC

Posted on April 27, 2016 at 4:39 PM

Re: Puzzled no vin number

Hi Cher
The Chassis Number on these cars should be on a Plate secured to the nearside Chassis Rail under the Carbs and the Engine Number should be on a plate just under the front Spark Plug area on the Engine. I can see that DVLA shows the Chassis No (VIN) as MAN959153 and the Engine No as12CCDRH9678.
Looking at our Register of Cars I would guess that the Chassis No should be HAN9 69153G and Engine No 12CCDAH9678 but that's only a guess based on the date of registration and where it fits amongst other similar age cars we have on the Register.
Unfortunately it's not uncommon for these cars to have wrongly entered characters and numbers on their Registration Documents (V5) as when they were first registered the log book details were entered by hand and then subsequently when transferred to the computerised system we now have, some details were entered wrongly!
If there is no Chassis Plate on your car you may be able to get more details from British Motor Heritage Trust who keep all the Factory records?
Hope this helps
PeteC

Posted on April 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM

Re: Midget SU carbs

Hi Paul
I'm guessing that somehow one or both the throttle flap(s) are stuck open? Have a good look at the linkage between the throttles on the carbs and see if it's jamming somewhere. Otherwise you may have a problem with the throttle cam on the choke linkage.
Probably best to start from scratch with the throttle linkage settings making sure both throttles open at the same time and to the same degree when the accelerator pedal is depressed. You'll need to balance the carbs and set the mixtures at idle once you've resolved the problem and then set up the fast idle speed when the choke is used. I think the Haynes manual gives a pretty good description of the set up procedure if you have one, or these days there's probably a you tube video!
Hope this helps
PeteC

Posted on March 14, 2016 at 2:16 PM

Re: 1966 midget rebuild

Hi Keith
Wow looks great too! Please submit the details for our Car of the Month feature. I'm sure we'd all like to hear more about you project!
Regards
PeteC

Posted on February 23, 2016 at 1:27 PM

Re: 1966 midget rebuild

Hi Keith
Great news! I look forward to seeing you out and about in it. How about some Pic's so we can see the result of your hard work! Well done.
PeteC

Posted on February 12, 2016 at 3:05 PM

Re: Cam belt conversion

Hi
I've not had any experience of these Cam Belt Kits unfortunately, however someone else might come up with more info. I found this info from Mini Spares
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/BELTBELT.aspx...
You may be able to match up what you have with their offerings?
You will need to raise the Engine off its mountings to get the Crank Pulley off and maybe a lot easier with the Rad out too! Not sure how much clearance you'll have compared to the standard set up (Timing Chain) but hopefully enough to get it off!
We'd be interested to here how you get on and maybe some pictures if you get chance to take some.
Regards
PeteC

Posted on January 12, 2016 at 4:19 PM

Re: 1966 midget rebuild

Hi Keith
That's great news, well done. Looks like you can buy the moulded Plug that fits into the two speed motor which would make the connection easier, see link below

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-517621PLUG...

The Wipers aren't the best thing on these cars but I'm sure the two speeds will help!
Cheers
PeteC

Posted on January 11, 2016 at 9:07 AM

Re: 1966 midget rebuild

Hi Keith
Happy New Year! Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Have a look at these two articles

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2252269...

http://vitessesteve.co.uk/LucasStuff/Triumph-2-speed-wiper-wiring...

They appear to have all that you might need to fit a two speed Motor to your Midget. Do let us know if you go ahead and convert your Wipers and how you got on...
Cheers
PeteC

Posted on January 06, 2016 at 4:05 PM

Re: Refurbished Rostyles

They do look great and sets the car off a treat too!
Petec

Posted on December 11, 2015 at 8:51 AM

Re: Replacement front wing fit

Hi Glyn
Doesn't look good in several areas! There will be an element of 'fitting' to be done, especially with such a large complex shaped panel. As Steve said I think the Bodyshop should ask the Supplier to look at it. It appears to me that the curved area where the wing meets the sill is the wrong shape with the gap opening up as it goes towards the front wheel. If this cannot be corrected by simple adjustment then the wing is the wrong shape. It may be possible that the front panel was moved as a result of the impact, as it is a bolt on panel too, and some adjustment could be made to that but that would affect the opposite wing and Bonnet fitting too! It looks to me like the wing is misshaped and the Supplier should be involved to remedy matters for you.
Petec

Posted on October 19, 2015 at 10:27 AM

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Vehicles

Registration number: 134 YUK

Model: Midget Mk1

Colour: Ice Blue

Year of manufacture: 1961