Petec

Total Posts 95

Posts

Viewing 61 to 80 (95 Total)
Re: Early rostyle wheel finish Hi TheTof Have a look at this earlier post on the Forum about Rostyles.. http://www.midgetregister.com/forums/technical/rostyle-wheels/... Send us some pics when you're done so we can see the results! Regards Petec Posted on October 08, 2015 at 11:20 AM
Re: 1275 Midget engine running badly Hi It sounds like you have a bit of a mash up of parts with your engine. The 1275cc engines of that era would have a Engine Number beginning 12V778FH****on a plate by the Dynamo/Alternator. The 12H336789 Number doesn't ring any bells. I think you're going to have to do a bit of detective work and check things like Valve timing and Camshaft wear as it maybe the Valves are no longer fully opening? Easiest to check this by taking off the Valve Cover and see if all the Valves are compressed to the same degree when turning over the Engine by hand and looking at the Valve strokes. I assume you've got adequate fuel delivery and it's not running out of fuel at higher revs? Not sure what a stage 1 Engine mods are but I would think polished & ported Head and maybe a hotter Camshaft? Thankfully there are many A-Series Engine experts out there who will be able to assist you technically but you can check these few basics before stripping the Engine down further! Hope this helps and do let us know how you get on as we'd be interested in what you find. Good luck Pete Posted on May 07, 2015 at 10:03 AM
Re: Rostyle Wheels Hi there I would have said the finish would be semi matt. From what I remember of the Rostyles when new they weren't glossy but not completely matt either if that makes sense! There are two styles of Rostyles fitted to Spridgets but both were finished this way. Some Owners have refurbished their's by painting them all Silver but they should be Silver and Black. You should be able to find lots of pictures of the two styles on the internet to give you an idea of the way the colours are split. Don't forget to send us some pic's of the finished items as we would be pleased to see the results! Happy motoring Pete C Posted on March 18, 2015 at 7:06 PM
Re: Thermostatic Sandwish plate for mocal oil cooler. Hope someone can help Louis Posted on March 11, 2015 at 9:51 AM
Re: correct breather for 1098cc 10cc engine Hi Sorry it's taken so long to respond. The 10CC Engine should not have the Breather Pipe from the Rocker Cover. This system was only used on the 10CG, 9CG Engines of the earlier cars. The correct set up for the 10CC Engine would be a Valve unit fitted to the Inlet Manifold connected to a Oil Seperator Canister which is part of the front Tappet Chest Cover, connected by a Rubber Hose. There should be no connection to the Rocker Cover and the Cover should not have a Breather Pipe attachment fitted. For some pictures please refer to Terry Horlers excellent Book 'Original Sprite & Midget' which details all the information required in great detail. Hope this helps Regards Petec Posted on November 12, 2014 at 9:28 AM
Re: 1500 chuggy It sounds to me like dirt in the carbs. I'm guessing that having taken them off the Engine you may have disturbed some muck in the bottom of the Float Chambers, espcially as you mentioned a bit of a leak from one of them. If you can, strip down both carbs (Float Chamber lids off and Piston Covers off) and blow out any muck with compressed air, or failing that with some aerosol Carb Cleaner. Hopefully this should sort it assuming you've put all the Gaskets back as they came off and they aren't damaged.. Hope you get it fixed and out on the road again soon! Pete Posted on September 25, 2014 at 4:37 PM
Re: MG MIdget 1967 - Starting Problems Hi Anthony I think the only thing left for you to look at is the Engine Earth Strap. This is usually to be found near the left hand front engine mounting. Take it off the car and clean up the mating surfaces to clean bare metal on the Body and Engine ends. It would also be worth checking the Battery Earth strap in the same way too! Otherwise I think you will have eliminated everthing! Good luck Regards Pete Posted on August 26, 2014 at 3:10 PM
Re: Dimensions Hi Minibarrow There's abit of info here and some good looking DIY Consoles too! http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2172845... It looks like you'd be best to create something to your liking in cardboard first to trial fit etc and then using this as a pattern for a wood or ally unit that can be trimmed to match your interior as required. Moss do a ready made Armrest... http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=14... Hope this helps. Petec Posted on August 13, 2014 at 12:36 PM
Re: Roof Replacement Hi Minibarrow Have a look at this article I found....Hopefully your new Hood has arrived without the Tenax Fastners installed at the back so you can fit these yourself to match the studs fitted on the car? Never fitted one myself but I'm advised a warm climate helps to soften the material for ease of installation! Good luck and send us a photo of the finished job.... Regards Petec http://www.mgexp.com/article/soft-top-midget.html... Posted on June 06, 2014 at 11:25 AM
Re: Tyres Hi There You may find that you have more choices if you search for size 145/80 x 13, 80 being the standard height aspect ratio for this size. I remember there being many options available when I was looking for replacements for my 5.20 x 13 Cross Ply's! Regards Petec Posted on May 01, 2014 at 1:07 PM
Re: oil leak from back of engine Hi Tnel That's great news and not too bad a job after all then! Well done.. Petec Posted on April 22, 2014 at 7:30 PM
Re: rolling tax exemption Hi There The best thing to do would be to get a Heritage Certificate for your car. This will show the build date and help you get the exemption you require... Regards PeteC http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-... Posted on March 21, 2014 at 7:55 AM
Re: Crankshaft pully bolt. Hi Mike Those Triumph Engine Crank Pulley Bolts are b****y tight! If I remember rightly we used to jam a spanner against the chassis leg and operate the starter motor briefly which always seemed to work. They are tight so the shock treatment was what was required. If you can get an Air Gun on it that might do it? They aren't LH thread from what I recall. Good luck. Pete Posted on February 04, 2014 at 1:21 PM
Re: 1500 Dual Circuit Bleeding Hi Mike I have no experience with the Braided Hoses, sorry. I understand that they give a better 'feel' on the Pedal but not aware of any lifetime issues with them. I know the standard Rubber ones can deteriorate internally while still looking ok from the outside but I haven't heard anything about the Braided/Teflon type failing in this way. Hopefully someone else will come along and add to the subject! Fingers crossed for the Eezibleed fixing your problem in the mean time. All the best PeteC Posted on January 17, 2014 at 11:35 AM
Re: 1500 Dual Circuit Bleeding Hi there It sounds like air trapped inside the Master Cylider bore? The Eezibleed will probably fix it but otherwise get someone inside the car to pump the pedal for you. Get them to pump the pedal a few times and hold it pressed while you slacken the pipe union on the Master Cylinder. While the pedal is down tighten up the union again then release the pedal. Top up the Reservoir and repeat the process a few times and hopefully the Fluid will start coming out by the slackened union. After you get Fluid coming out here tighten it back up then go round the car as normal to bleed the whole system. Hope this helps... All the best Pete C Posted on January 16, 2014 at 6:47 PM
Re: Midget Trim Hi There I can recommend Mirror Trim, just off junction 12 of the M1. Have a look at their website and you'll see my Friends Green Midget, interior trimed in light Brown, on their homepage. It is a good job and looks really great too! PBW come highly rated also and I'm sure there are others but these two have been used before and can therefore be personally recommended! http://www.mirrortrim.co.uk/ http://www.pbw-mg-ah.co.uk/Parts_trim_panels.html... PeteC Posted on January 08, 2014 at 10:37 AM
Re: light bulbs Hi Steve Not sure if this is any help, but here goes:- 239 - Festoon- Interior Light 273 - Festoon- Reverse Lights 281 - Small Bayonet - Instrument Illumination & Warning Lights 380 - Large Bayonet - Stop/Tail 382 - Large Bayonet - Indicators 501 - Capless - Front Sidelights in Headlight type 504 - Small Capless - Instrument Illumination 987 - Screw Cap - Instrument Illumination (Early Cars) 989 - Bayonet - Front Side Lights & No Plate Lights You'll probably need to upgrade to an Electronic Flasher Unit which is not load dependant like the Bi-metallic ones normally fitted. I have converted to Electronic ones in the past and it's quite easy with minor wiring alteration. Regards Pete Posted on December 09, 2013 at 3:30 PM
Re: Finish on windscreen frame Midget MkII -64 Hi The Windscreen Frame is anodised Aluminium, not painted. You would need to contact a local Plating firm to get it re-finished if that is what's required. Happy Midgeting Pete Posted on November 27, 2013 at 12:20 PM
Re: 1966 midget rebuild Hi Keith Good to hear another car will be back on the road soon! Paste this into your browser for some advice about pos to neg earth conversion. http://www.spritespot.com/Download/Positive%20to%20Negative%20Groun... As for pictures you should find lots of good stuff on the net. I can also highly recommend Terry Horlers book, Original Sprite & Midget, which is a great source of detail relating to the cars. Regards Pete Posted on November 18, 2013 at 3:43 PM
Re: Facebook page for Midget register Hi Steve Well done mate! I've grabbed a couple of your pics for the website too. Looks like the Facebook Page is off to a flyer... Regards Pete Posted on September 26, 2013 at 4:19 PM

Viewing 61 to 80 (95 Total)

Re: Early rostyle wheel finish

Hi TheTof
Have a look at this earlier post on the Forum about Rostyles..

http://www.midgetregister.com/forums/technical/rostyle-wheels/...

Send us some pics when you're done so we can see the results!
Regards
Petec

Posted on October 08, 2015 at 11:20 AM

Re: 1275 Midget engine running badly

Hi
It sounds like you have a bit of a mash up of parts with your engine. The 1275cc engines of that era would have a Engine Number beginning 12V778FH****on a plate by the Dynamo/Alternator. The 12H336789 Number doesn't ring any bells. I think you're going to have to do a bit of detective work and check things like Valve timing and Camshaft wear as it maybe the Valves are no longer fully opening? Easiest to check this by taking off the Valve Cover and see if all the Valves are compressed to the same degree when turning over the Engine by hand and looking at the Valve strokes.
I assume you've got adequate fuel delivery and it's not running out of fuel at higher revs?
Not sure what a stage 1 Engine mods are but I would think polished & ported Head and maybe a hotter Camshaft? Thankfully there are many A-Series Engine experts out there who will be able to assist you technically but you can check these few basics before stripping the Engine down further!
Hope this helps and do let us know how you get on as we'd be interested in what you find.
Good luck
Pete

Posted on May 07, 2015 at 10:03 AM

Re: Rostyle Wheels

Hi there
I would have said the finish would be semi matt. From what I remember of the Rostyles when new they weren't glossy but not completely matt either if that makes sense! There are two styles of Rostyles fitted to Spridgets but both were finished this way. Some Owners have refurbished their's by painting them all Silver but they should be Silver and Black.
You should be able to find lots of pictures of the two styles on the internet to give you an idea of the way the colours are split.
Don't forget to send us some pic's of the finished items as we would be pleased to see the results!
Happy motoring
Pete C

Posted on March 18, 2015 at 7:06 PM

Re: Thermostatic Sandwish plate for mocal oil cooler.

Hope someone can help Louis

Posted on March 11, 2015 at 9:51 AM

Re: correct breather for 1098cc 10cc engine

Hi
Sorry it's taken so long to respond. The 10CC Engine should not have the Breather Pipe from the Rocker Cover. This system was only used on the 10CG, 9CG Engines of the earlier cars. The correct set up for the 10CC Engine would be a Valve unit fitted to the Inlet Manifold connected to a Oil Seperator Canister which is part of the front Tappet Chest Cover, connected by a Rubber Hose. There should be no connection to the Rocker Cover and the Cover should not have a Breather Pipe attachment fitted.
For some pictures please refer to Terry Horlers excellent Book 'Original Sprite & Midget' which details all the information required in great detail.
Hope this helps
Regards
Petec

Posted on November 12, 2014 at 9:28 AM

Re: 1500 chuggy

It sounds to me like dirt in the carbs. I'm guessing that having taken them off the Engine you may have disturbed some muck in the bottom of the Float Chambers, espcially as you mentioned a bit of a leak from one of them. If you can, strip down both carbs (Float Chamber lids off and Piston Covers off) and blow out any muck with compressed air, or failing that with some aerosol Carb Cleaner. Hopefully this should sort it assuming you've put all the Gaskets back as they came off and they aren't damaged..
Hope you get it fixed and out on the road again soon!
Pete

Posted on September 25, 2014 at 4:37 PM

Re: MG MIdget 1967 - Starting Problems

Hi Anthony
I think the only thing left for you to look at is the Engine Earth Strap. This is usually to be found near the left hand front engine mounting. Take it off the car and clean up the mating surfaces to clean bare metal on the Body and Engine ends.
It would also be worth checking the Battery Earth strap in the same way too!
Otherwise I think you will have eliminated everthing!
Good luck
Regards
Pete

Posted on August 26, 2014 at 3:10 PM

Re: Dimensions

Hi Minibarrow
There's abit of info here and some good looking DIY Consoles too!
http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2172845...
It looks like you'd be best to create something to your liking in cardboard first to trial fit etc and then using this as a pattern for a wood or ally unit that can be trimmed to match your interior as required.
Moss do a ready made Armrest...
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=14...
Hope this helps.
Petec

Posted on August 13, 2014 at 12:36 PM

Re: Roof Replacement

Hi Minibarrow
Have a look at this article I found....Hopefully your new Hood has arrived without the Tenax Fastners installed at the back so you can fit these yourself to match the studs fitted on the car? Never fitted one myself but I'm advised a warm climate helps to soften the material for ease of installation! Good luck and send us a photo of the finished job....
Regards
Petec

http://www.mgexp.com/article/soft-top-midget.html...

Posted on June 06, 2014 at 11:25 AM

Re: Tyres

Hi There
You may find that you have more choices if you search for size 145/80 x 13, 80 being the standard height aspect ratio for this size. I remember there being many options available when I was looking for replacements for my 5.20 x 13 Cross Ply's!
Regards
Petec

Posted on May 01, 2014 at 1:07 PM

Re: oil leak from back of engine

Hi Tnel
That's great news and not too bad a job after all then! Well done..
Petec

Posted on April 22, 2014 at 7:30 PM

Re: rolling tax exemption

Hi There
The best thing to do would be to get a Heritage Certificate for your car. This will show the build date and help you get the exemption you require...
Regards
PeteC

http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/heritage-certificates-...

Posted on March 21, 2014 at 7:55 AM

Re: Crankshaft pully bolt.

Hi Mike
Those Triumph Engine Crank Pulley Bolts are b****y tight! If I remember rightly we used to jam a spanner against the chassis leg and operate the starter motor briefly which always seemed to work. They are tight so the shock treatment was what was required. If you can get an Air Gun on it that might do it? They aren't LH thread from what I recall. Good luck.
Pete

Posted on February 04, 2014 at 1:21 PM

Re: 1500 Dual Circuit Bleeding

Hi Mike
I have no experience with the Braided Hoses, sorry. I understand that they give a better 'feel' on the Pedal but not aware of any lifetime issues with them. I know the standard Rubber ones can deteriorate internally while still looking ok from the outside but I haven't heard anything about the Braided/Teflon type failing in this way. Hopefully someone else will come along and add to the subject!
Fingers crossed for the Eezibleed fixing your problem in the mean time.
All the best
PeteC

Posted on January 17, 2014 at 11:35 AM

Re: 1500 Dual Circuit Bleeding

Hi there
It sounds like air trapped inside the Master Cylider bore? The Eezibleed will probably fix it but otherwise get someone inside the car to pump the pedal for you. Get them to pump the pedal a few times and hold it pressed while you slacken the pipe union on the Master Cylinder. While the pedal is down tighten up the union again then release the pedal. Top up the Reservoir and repeat the process a few times and hopefully the Fluid will start coming out by the slackened union. After you get Fluid coming out here tighten it back up then go round the car as normal to bleed the whole system.
Hope this helps...
All the best
Pete C

Posted on January 16, 2014 at 6:47 PM

Re: Midget Trim

Hi There
I can recommend Mirror Trim, just off junction 12 of the M1. Have a look at their website and you'll see my Friends Green Midget, interior trimed in light Brown,
on their homepage. It is a good job and looks really great too!
PBW come highly rated also and I'm sure there are others but these two have been used before and can therefore be personally recommended!

http://www.mirrortrim.co.uk/

http://www.pbw-mg-ah.co.uk/Parts_trim_panels.html...

PeteC

Posted on January 08, 2014 at 10:37 AM

Re: light bulbs

Hi Steve
Not sure if this is any help, but here goes:-
239 - Festoon- Interior Light
273 - Festoon- Reverse Lights
281 - Small Bayonet - Instrument Illumination & Warning Lights
380 - Large Bayonet - Stop/Tail
382 - Large Bayonet - Indicators
501 - Capless - Front Sidelights in Headlight type
504 - Small Capless - Instrument Illumination
987 - Screw Cap - Instrument Illumination (Early Cars)
989 - Bayonet - Front Side Lights & No Plate Lights
You'll probably need to upgrade to an Electronic Flasher Unit which is not load dependant like the Bi-metallic ones normally fitted. I have converted to Electronic ones in the past and it's quite easy with minor wiring alteration.
Regards
Pete

Posted on December 09, 2013 at 3:30 PM

Re: Finish on windscreen frame Midget MkII -64

Hi
The Windscreen Frame is anodised Aluminium, not painted. You would need to contact a local Plating firm to get it re-finished if that is what's required.
Happy Midgeting
Pete

Posted on November 27, 2013 at 12:20 PM

Re: 1966 midget rebuild

Hi Keith
Good to hear another car will be back on the road soon! Paste this into your browser for some advice about pos to neg earth conversion.
http://www.spritespot.com/Download/Positive%20to%20Negative%20Groun...
As for pictures you should find lots of good stuff on the net. I can also highly recommend Terry Horlers book, Original Sprite & Midget, which is a great source of detail relating to the cars.
Regards
Pete

Posted on November 18, 2013 at 3:43 PM

Re: Facebook page for Midget register

Hi Steve
Well done mate! I've grabbed a couple of your pics for the website too. Looks like the Facebook Page is off to a flyer...
Regards
Pete

Posted on September 26, 2013 at 4:19 PM

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Vehicles

Registration number: 134 YUK

Model: Midget Mk1

Colour: Ice Blue

Year of manufacture: 1961